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Mojave National Preserve

Mojave Desert California sunsetA Mosaic of Desert Landscapes: Mojave National Preserve

Ripple sand dunes sing an eerie chorus. Cactus flowers bloom after a spring rain, jewels against buff-colored earth. Juniper and pinyon trees clinging to rock. Saltbush borders a dry lakebed, and countless Joshua tree limbs reach toward the sky as if in prayer. Mojave is all these scenes and more – a bounty for the senses.

Mojave National Preserve, part of the US National Parks, was established in 1994 as part of the California Desert Protection Act. The 1.6-million-acre park encompasses much of the Mojave Desert, as well as transitional elements of the Great Basin and Sonoran deserts. About half of the park is congressionally designated wilderness. Wilderness areas, marked by signs, are open to hikers and horseback riders but off limits to motor vehicles.

Desert Weather

Rare rainbow in the desert in the US National ParksCalifornia summer temperatures often exceed 100°F; yearly rainfall ranges four to 14 inches. Elevations range from 800 feet near Baker to 7,929 feet atop Clark Mountain. A spine of mountains bisects the park north to south. Cinder cones, lava beds, sand dunes, the Soda Dry Lake, and Cima Dome attest to the geological forces at work through the ages.

Many variables – elevation, moisture, soil composition, exposure to the sun, shelter from the wind, and the effects of human habitation – create at least 30 identifiable habitats for plants and animals. Habitats, of course, do not have hard boundaries and often overlap, they are grouped below into general categories. You will encounter different habitats within a short distance of each other.

Keep in mind that Mojave lacks many of the visitor facilities you might expect in a national park. This creates both inconveniences and opportunities. Nearby communities offer lodging and other services, so plan ahead. Come prepared to observe, explore, discover, reflect.

Pinyon and juniper grow in the desertPinyon Juniper Woodland

At higher elevations, particularly on north-facing slopes, pinyon and juniper trees cling to shallow, rocky soil. Look for this habitat in the Clark, Granite, New York, and Providence mountains. You can camp among these trees at Mid Hills campground.

Pinyon nuts and juniper berries have long provided food for humans and wild animals. Ranchers built fences from junipers; you can still see remnants at abandoned homesteads.

This habitat includes sagebrush, goldenbush, wildflowers such as Mojave prickly pear – one of several species of prickly pear found in the park. Also look for scrub jays – blue but not crested – and antelope ground squirrels.

Another clue to the high elevations is the bighorn, a wild sheep that feeds on grasses and other plants. They are best spotted near water sources. Hooves adapted to steep, rocky terrain allow them to escape predators such as mountain lions.

Joshua Tree Woodland

Joshua trees are a landmark in the mojave desertJoshua trees tell you you’re truly in Mojave country. Though they can grow 50 feet tall, they are not really trees but a species of yucca. They prefer flat areas or gradual inclines. The world’s largest concentration of Joshua trees grows on the slope of Cima Dome near Teutonia Peak.

Compare them with other yuccas that grow nearby. Banana yuccas grow up to five feet tall and have long blue-green, curved spines. Mojave yuccas can reach 20 feet in height and branch above ground level.

One of Mojave’s many lizard species, the desert night lizard, lives in decaying plant matter such as downed Joshua trees. Despite its name, this tiny lizard is diurnal but may be active after nightfall hunting termites.

Insects, often attracted by flowers of the Mojave mound cactus and threadleaf groundsel, become food for birds. Joshua tree woodlands support species such as Scott’s oriole and the American kestrel, a bird of prey.

 

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