Denali National Park and Preserve

Taiga and Tundra

More than 650 species of flowing plants as well as many species of mosses, lichens, fungi, algae, and others grace the slopes and valleys of Denali and support Denali wildlife. Only plants adapted to long, bitterly cold winters and short growing seasons can survive in this subarctic wilderness. Deep beds of intermittent permafrost – ground frozen for thousands of years – underlie portions of Denali. Only the thinnest layer of topsoil thaws each summer to support life. After the continental glaciers retreated, hundreds of years were required to begin building new soils, and to begin the slow process of revegetation. Denali’s lowlands and slopes consist of two major plant associations, taiga and tundra.

Taiga (pronounced ti-ga), a Russian word for northern evergreen forest, describes the scant tree growth here near the Arctic Circle. Much of the park and preserve’s taiga lies in valleys along the rivers. White and black spruce, the most common trees, are interspersed with quaking aspen, paper birch, larch, and balsam poplar. Stands of deciduous trees occur along streamside gravel bars or where soils have been disturbed by fire or other action. Woods are frequently carpeted with mosses and lichens. Many open areas are filled with shrubs such as dwarf birch, blueberry, and a variety of willow species. The limit of tree growth occurs at about 2,700 feet in the park and preserve. For comparison, the elevation at the park visitor center is 1,750 feet. Above the tree limit, taiga gives way to tundra.

Tundra is a fascinating world of dwarfed shrubs and miniaturized wildflowers adapted to a short growing season. There are two types, moist tundra and dry tundra, with myriad gradations in between. Moist tundra varies in composition: some areas contain tussocks of sedges and cottongrass; others contain dwarfed shrubs, particularly dwarf birch, willows, and alder. Plants of the dry tundra occur above shrubline. Meadows abound where soil moisture is high, and in areas of lower soil moisture complete plant cover is replaced by scattered patches of plants amidst barren rock. Mountain avens, dwarf fireweed, moss campion, numerous saxifrage species, and forget-me-not (Alaska’s state flower) dot the rocky landscape, offering stunning summer displays of delicate blossoms. Many of these tiny highland plants grow closely matted to the ground, creating their own livable microclimate. Vascular plants are entirely replaced by lichens and mosses above 7,200 feet. Although small in stature, plants of the dry tundra are important because their nutrients provide food for many species of park wildlife, both large and small.

Denali Wildlife

Spring, summer, and fall provide a compressed respite from the subarctic’s long season of deep cold. For most Denali wildlife, it is a busy time during which they must garner most of their annual food supplies. Dall sheep, relatives of the bighorn sheep, graze the alpine tundra for the young shoots of mountain avens. Ewes and rams live apart in summer, while the lambs are getting their start. In early summer sheep are at lower elevations, but they follow the melting snow during their migration to higher areas as the season progresses.

Caribou, like the Dall sheep, travel in groups. Both sexes sport antlers, the only deer family members to do so. Caribou migrate great distances from their calving grounds south of the Alaska Range and northwest of Mount McKinley to their winter range in the northern reaches of the park and preserve. The Denali wildlife herd has fluctuated greatly in number over the last 30 years. Today groups of 20 or more may be seen from the park road, quite different from the thousands seen many years ago. Moose, the deer family’s largest members, are not herd animals. Bulls may group in threes or fours or wander alone until they pursue several cow moose during the rut, or mating season. The calves are born in May and will stay with the cow one or two years. In spring, the cow and calf feed on willows and other new green vegetation. At this time of year, be cautious about traveling in willow thickets. A cow moose can be very dangerous while protecting her calf from a perceived threat. Wolves are rarely seen, but they play an important role in the natural scheme. In winter, wolves generally hunt in packs. Individuals, however, can be sighted as well. Pack organization is strongest during the whelping (pupping) season in spring. The presence of wolves in Denali is an indication of the quality of this wilderness. If you are lucky enough to see a wolf, consider it a rare and privileged experience.

Grizzly bears are omnivores – digging roots as well as eating grasses and other forbs, berries, ground squirrels, moose or caribou calves, and occasional carrion. They are seen throughout the park. Sows generally bear two cubs, sometimes one, and not uncommonly three. They too are fiercely protective of their offspring. Wolves and grizzly bears play an important role as predators; at every opportunity, they cull old, newborn, and sick animals from the caribou, moose, and sheep populations.

Smaller mammals abound within the limits of this harsh, northern environment: fox, weasel, wolverine, lynx, marten, snowshoe hare, hoary marmot, red squirrel, ground squirrel, pika, porcupine, beaver, shrew, vole, and lemming. There are 37 mammal species recorded in the park and preserve.

Birdlife is varied and interesting. Most birds migrate long distances between their nesting grounds here in the park and their wintering areas. Wheatears winter in Africa; arctic terns in Antarctica and southern South America; jaegers take to life at sea in the southern oceans. On the open tundra, you may easily see ptarmigan, Lapland longspurs, and various shorebirds. Short-eared owls and northern harriers can be seen soaring low in search of rodents. Golden eagles patrol the higher elevations and ridgetops. Raptors – birds of prey – of the spruce forest are the hawk owl and goshawk. In these forests, you may also see the spruce grouse and varied thrush. Plovers, gyrfalcons, mew gulls, and snow buntings are among the 159 species of birds recorded at Denali. Raven, ptarmigan, magpie, and gray jay are some of the species that winter in the park and preserve.

Winter challenges wildlife with frigid temperatures and the cessation of plant growth. Food is scarce. Grizzlies fatten up in summer and remain in a torpor or deep sleep most of the winter. Ground squirrels and marmots hibernate, their body functions virtually halted. Beavers, red squirrels, and pikas hole up and subsist on food caches. Weasels, showshoe hares, and ptarmigan, however, turn white and continue the struggle to survive above ground against extreme conditions.

Wildlife. Bears, moose, and other animals are unpredictable and potentially dangerous, especially when protecting their young or their territories. Make noise when you hike so you don’t surprise animals, especially bears. Do not walk toward bears, moose, or other animals. They may feel threatened and react aggressively. Photograph wild animals with a telephoto lens. Close approaches disturb them and endanger you. Keep your campsite clean. Store food in your vehicle, not in your tent. For backcountry procedures and other safety messages see the Denali Alpenglow. Never feed any wild animals, including squirrels and gulls that frequent campgrounds.

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